Highland photo journal part 8- Glendale, Skye

Some places you go just have that magical feel that make you want to stay forever.  Glendale was one of those places.

 

It may have been the charming b&b we stayed in, the Byre, where the views were spectacular, or the food cooked by the landlady Diane, especially her gooseberry crumble, which the most lovely comforting home cooking….

…or the charming people like Craig, one half of Craig and Ellie who we met at the Red Roof  Cafe and Gallery where they own and run a lovely place full of was gorgeous looking home baking, food made from local produce, art and often music, or the stunning walks, like the one to Neist Point where the sheep have to have a head for heights and a good sense of balance…

 

Highland photo journal part 7- The Three Chimneys (a foodporn installation)

Oh Glendale, how lovely it was to see you and your rolling hills speckled with white dot houses, like a sprawling metropolis compared to Glasnakille.

We had just enough time to find our feet, our lunch, and our first toasty hot bubbly bath in days before the evenings activities commenced….Dinner at The Three Chimneys!  We, of course, had to warm up first and this is where our Applecross squat lobsters once more came to the rescue.

After a lazy afternoon watching the remains of the rain stream down The Byre window (our b&b, more on that later) it was time for the main event.  Dinner.  There is so much to cover after our visit to Glendale, I am dedicating this post purely to ‘the feast’ and will complete coverage of Glendale once this is fully digested.

Now, these may look insignificant, but these tasty little dumpings of cheesy joy represent the start of our culinary adventure.

So without further ado….  

Highland photo journal, part 5- Isle Ornsey, Skye

Our journey from Applecross to Isle Ornsey seemed relatively short compared to other journeys we have done recently.  We arrived nice and early.  It’s easy to see why the Sleat peninsula it is called the garden of Skye.  It is so green and lush compared to the moorland that covers much of Skye.

We arrived early which allowed us to take a long, long walk around a remote and unknown coastal area.  Stopping only to get lost and to have to backtrack over clifftops, rocks and boulders, and through ferns and nettles and grasses.  It was pretty though.

 

Highland photo journal, part 4- Applecross (a foodporn installation)

I promised foodporn…. but I also have to share my journey here and the provide a bit of background on the place that makes me happiest in all the world.

Having returned to Mallaig, we just managed to catch the calmac sailing to Skye.  Here’s our little adventurercar on board.

We skipped across Sleat and off over the bridge.

It may seem a long way round to sail to Skye, drive through it, then off again over the bridge, but it was much quicker than driving up over the mainland.

On arrival at Applecross we set up camp and made a spot of lunch using the local hot smoked salmon.

Yes, it was pretty amazing.

We then headed straight for the Potting Shed in the Walled Garden for carrot and walnut cake and a glass of wine.  The garden was looking beautiful, even in the light of the slightly greyed skies.

 

The last time we were here was in March when everything was suffering after the harsh winter.  It’s hard to believe the garden could have recovered, so it was nice to see how lush and colourful it was.  It looked like a scene from a fairytale.

 

Highland photo journal, part 2- a stroll round Mallaig

This is just a quick post of a few things I spotted while strolling along Mallaig harbour, waiting for the boat to Knoydart.

There must be a story behind this, but I can’t think what it could be…

Who knows when I will next have internet connection, but watch this space for tales from Knoydart, and beyond…

Highland photo journal, part1- Arisaig

Our first few days have been pretty spectacular. Arisaig has been beautiful.

Ok, we got rained on, a wee bit, bit the clouds overhead created a stunning sunset.

And, when I turned round, the combination of rain and sunset created this….

 

exciting possibilities…by boat and by bike

Today, I am pretty excited.  Plans for our next adventure are coming together and, I think, they are rather special.

We will be covering Arisaig, Knoydart, Sleat and Trotternish on Skye and, of course, Applecross.  Arisaig, Skye and Applecross will be repeat visits.  I know what awaits me there and I can’t wait to get back.

Given the remoteness of most areas this involves some careful travel and accommodation planning.  Passenger boats, car ferries, bikes and kayaks will all be making a contribution to our journeys up and around Scotland’s west coast.  I think it sounds amazing!  I can’t wait to get paddling again, it’s been too long…

However, I am actually starting to see the appeal of canoeing instead of kayaking- It’s a bit more flake advert and a bit less Bear Gryls.

I am particularly looking forward to experiencing Knoydart, totally inaccessible by road and can only be reach by rather lengthy hike through mountains.  Alternatively, and this is our preferred route, by boat from Mallaig.

As well as seeing these stunning places, I am excited as this trip will give me the opportunity to eat at some fabulous food establishments.

1. I can’t wait to try the Knoydart prawns!  I here they are a major contender to the infamous Applecross bay prawn I am so partial to.

2. The possibility of eating at The Three Chimneys.  I’ve done this once before and it was outrageously good.  I would love to repeat it and hopefully we can get a table- better book now- it can take 2-3 months for a reservation!

3. Jann’s cake shop in Dunvegan, Skye. You have not had a muffin until you have had one of Jann’s muffins, topped with home made chocolates!

4. The possibility of eating at Kinloch Lodge, Claire McDonald’s restaurant.  Another michelin star restaurant on Skye (in addition to The Three Chimneys).

5. Prawns at the Applecross Inn! -an oldie but a goodie.

6. Dinner at the Potting Shed in the Applecross Walled Garden.  It’s been too long!

7. Dinner at the Shieldaig Coastal Kitchen again, hopefully outside on the roof terrace.

8. Cooking big pots of squat lobster on the camping stove or steaks on the barbecue and eating them al fresco (the weather will, of course, be amazing and there will be no midges).

With all this eating I have in mind it’s a good thing we plan some serious outdoor activities.  I was unfortunate enough to have my bike stolen from under my bedroom window in the middle of the night just a month or two ago.  The cheeky so and so’s wheeled it right by my front door at 4 in the morning.  What’s worse, is the noise of the wheels squeaking actually woke me up but I couldn’t figure out what it was and didn’t until we found the cut security chain dangling lamely from the drainpipe a few days later.  Luckily it was insured and I now have a shiny new bike which I have been getting some practice on recently.

It’s easy to forget what you have on your doorstep and this is something I have been guilty of lately.  I should really make good use of the cycle network my house sits on and since the weather took a turn for the better I have been doing this when I can.

Until I journey off next, I have a feeling I am going to be getting quite familiar with the cycle network and I am looking forward to it.  Since I must be burning off at least ten thousand calories an hour I already feel justified in the extra food intake of late.  I do need my fuel after all!  Speaking of which, the picture of Jann’s cake has put me in the mood…I’m off for a rummage in the fridge.

An Applecross prawn a day keeps the doctor away

I’ve just spent seven heavenly days in my favourite place in the world and I’m feeling pretty happy and chilled out.  My body may be back behind a boring desk at work for 8 hours today, but my spirit is still firmly in Applecross bay with the prawns and the squat lobsters and all the other lovely edible creatures just waiting to sacrifice themselves to please my belly.

I have eaten a lot this week.  A lot.  I may be having a food baby now, but it was worth every last mouthful.  In keeping with tradition our first meal was at the Applecross Inn where I devoured whole Applecross prawns swimming in garlic butter.  These bad boys were huge and juicy and oh so delicious.  It’s always the first meal of holiday prawns that are the most memorable.  Maybe because, after a few months since I was last in Applecross, my memory of them had started to fade, so when they arrived at the table on the first night there was a fanfare playing in my head.  When placed in front of me I felt like they should leap up off the plate with big jazz hands (or claws) going “ Taaa-Daaaaaa!”.  Yes, I know- that mental picture was pretty awesome, right?

Anyway, moving on from my prawn day dream…

Many other fabulous meals were had, including big beefy steaks, crispy fish and chips, half pints of prawn tails with cocktail sauce and lovely squat lobsters which you can find in abundance in and around Applecross, but not may other places further south.  This is a shame, as they are fantastic.  Apparently they don’t travel well- Perhaps they get car sick?  Let’s not dwell on that mental image.

I also concocted my very own creations in our wee but-n-ben- a slow cooked lamb and haricot bean stew in velvety tomato sauce yumminess, home baked shortbread and the vital scottish breakfast of kings (and queens) square sausage, fried onion and tatty scone in a roll!

Apart from the eating I did some moderate outdoor activities, including a walk to the mast above the Bealach-na-ba. Here is the view from the top:

However,most of my newly acquired protein fuelled energy was burnt on a walk through shin deep cow field muck and rivers to reach a beautiful remote beach only visible when the tide is super low.  It was probably one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen and not another soul around for miles.  It also helped that this was on the most glorious day of the year so far.  I think I had a bit of a moment and tried to capture it on camera, but it just didn’t do it justice.

On Wednesday we were joined by friends from London who flew to Inverness and completed the journey in true ‘romantic’ highland fashion- by stinky diesel train.  However, I am underselling this as, if you have to travel by train, the route from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh is the one to do it on.

I’ve been to the Applecross area so many times over the years and I love it a bit more each time, but since my wedding there a few years ago, I forgot how much fun it was to show it to someone for the first time.  The drive over the Bealach-na-ba for starters- it’s a bit like the marmite of the road world. If you love driving, you will love the Bealach-na-ba, but if your not so confident, it’s hell on earth.

Personally, I love it and the views from the summit (on a clear day) are probably the most spectacular roadside views you’ll find in the world…or for at least….20 miles, bearing in mind the coastal road between Applecross and Shieldaig is equally as stunning.  As well as showing off the scenery it was a joy to impart our knowledge of all the food produced locally and share some lovely meals.  We destroyed cheeseboards from the West Highland dairy, decimated venison sausages from Roddy, the butcher in Lochcarron and obliterated all the Torridon and Shieldaig smoked salmon we could find.  Even the honestly box eggs from the roadside cupboard were the best eggs we had ever tasted and, over the week, we cleared out the top shelf leaving only the hats and gloves for sale (they were rather nice too, but it was just too sunny to justify knit wear, it was above 5 degrees after all!).

I can’t think of anywhere else in Scotland there is such a fantastic range of foodie places in such a small area, especially somewhere so remote.  On the down side, we missed the start of ‘the season’ by one week, therefore we missed out on food at the Kishorn seafood bar, The Potting Shed in the Applecross Walled Garden- my very favourite place to eat in all the world, not just because food is amazing, but it is also where I had my wedding- and Nanny’s place in Shieldaig.  Maybe just as well as I don’t think we had enough meals in each day to cover them all.  However, we did pay the Applecross Inn frequent visits and had a lovely lunch at the Shieldaig Bar and Coastal Kitchen where we were very pleased to see Clootie dumping with Drambuie custard on the menu.  I don’t think it surpassed the sticky toffee pudding from the Applecross Inn though- Sweet spongy syrupy magic in a bowl.

In between all this eating and occasional moderate/minimal exercise, we also did a good job of working our way through our very special bottles of whisky from Tam’s Drams in front of the stove, not to mention a good few more on offer behind the bar at the Applecross Inn.

Does this all sound very indulgent?  It was!  …..Most pleasing

Ahhhh, if only it could have gone on forever. I fully intend on moving to Applecross and when I do this will be doing every day.   I also intend on winning the lottery to fund such activities and maybe to invest some sort of cholesterol and calorie burning device.  On a tangent, we did befriend a lovely chap, we shall refer to as Santa, and I came close to negotiating the purchase of a caravan from him once he had finished building his new house and had moved out of said caravan.  I really believe I could have been spending many a happy weekend stuffed into Santa’s wee caravan in the middle of nowhere, full of squats and prawns and whisky….if only we had one more round of drinks to finalise the deal.  However, I was swiftly removed from my bar stool and promptly marched home under the light of the super moon, safely away from the temptation to trade the family jewels for a tin can on wheels….It would have been nice though!

Anyway, it all had to end at some point, so we finished our visit with a grand finale at the Applecross Inn where we had our last prawny supper, a lovely bottle of red (connoisseurs choice, no less) and many many whiskies to fuel our final journey home through the creepy woods, made slightly less creepy by our raised alcohol levels.  On Saturday we made a pit stop at Roddy’s butchers where the London collective bought the remaining stock of smoked fish to take home and we purchased a half cow half venison sausage monster, followed by a quick visit to the Carron Pottery where many tea towels and sheep skin slippers were adopted.  I am pleased to report they are now living happily with their new family in London.

I had a fabulous week and I’m glad everyone else had just as nice a time.  We all plan on a return visit soon, very soon.

Watch out prawns!

In the mean time here is the best of the rest…

Applecross moment

I’m taking advantage of a brief and rare moment of very slow internet connection from far flung Applecross to post a wee photo.

More to follow when I return to the 21st century….

The Lorne way round

So, after a long dark winter eating and drinking my way round Partick, I finally hit the road just in time for spring to burst onto the scene.  Precision timing.  With tunes on the stereo, sunglasses dusted down and perched upon my nose, an empty belly and camera round my neck, I was really to adventure off to discover uncharted Argyll territory.  First, a fundamental fuel stop at the Loch Fyne Oyster bar for lunch-  Beautiful shiny seafood linguine in a ginger cream sauce- exactly what my mouth was shaped for.

After a leisurely drive through roller coaster hillsides and moors, we emerged to join the Sounds of Jura where we pottered by dopy yachts bobbing about on the sparkly sheltered waters by the marina before arriving at our hotel, The Galley of Lorne.  A lovely wee sailor friendly pub/inn on the waters edge.  Fortunately, they were friendly to non sailors too and we were pleased to find somebody with a bit of imagination had recently refurbished the rooms to a standard you don’t often find in wee remote abodes.  After a quick wander to get our bearings we assumed our positions in the bar and commenced our journey through the food and drink menu.  Ok, it wasn’t the most amazing meal I have ever had, but somebody was clearly trying hard and put a bit of thought into the menu.  The winner of the evening was the sticky date pudding in toffee sauce- Often this can go so wrong, but they nailed it.  We spent the rest of the evening slowly working our way through the whisky selection while watching the locals get steadily drunker, louder and dancier…..All very amusing then, but not so when we got up the next morning for breakfast to find all the other hotel guests roaming the corridors, bewildered at finding the whole place locked up and in darkness without a member of staff in sight.  They seemed to have forgotten the breakfast part of ‘bed and breakfast’.  I’ve never experienced this before, nor had anyone else so nobody really knew what the drill was.  We tried calling the contact number on the front door- no answer.  After more corridor pacing and rattling of locked doors we were starting to resemble breakfast zombies, so we took a wee walk in the morning sun to de-zombiefy and take a few pictures.

When we returned breakfast was in full swing, so we filled up on lots of fried stuff before venturing off for a walk in the sunshine at a wee spot called Aird, we then took a driving taking in Kilmartin, Crinal canal and Loch Fyne where we stopped frequently for wanderings and photo taking opportunities.

Here are some things I saw:

Instead of returning home to sleepyville, we treated ourselves to a wee night at the Lorne Hotel in Glasgow.  Lunch was at La Vallee Blanche, one of my favourite restaurants in Glasgow, where we caught up with family over steak frite followed by cocktails at Booly Mardy’s.  I know I know, it’s a tough life.  As if that wasn’t hard enough, dinner was at Bukharah where I had the most delicious dosa with spicy chicken, curry and peshwari naan followed by more cocktails at the Bilerry bar.  This is where I finally learned you can have too much of a good thing when it comes to food.  My guts have never hurt so much, but like a real trooper, I fought through it and enjoyed a wee session at the Ben Nevis bar where gid tunes and a wee Balvenie aided the digestion process.

Next morning, after barely touching breakfast, we took a long walk through Kelvingrove Park stopping at Sonny and Vito’s deli for coffee where it was so lovely we sat outside in the spring sunshine.  I know!  Outside!  How exciting.  We finally pottered back through the park before having lunch and afternoon drinks at The Goat.  The final pit stop was a true find, Tam’s Drams, a specialist whisky shop on Argyle Street.  Tam was a lovely man with great chat and a wealth of knowledge on the rare selection of whiskies stocked.  A brilliant shop- I can’t wait to go back and stock up before my next trip up north, which is only two weeks away!  Hurrah!