Highland photo journal, part 4- Applecross (a foodporn installation)

I promised foodporn…. but I also have to share my journey here and the provide a bit of background on the place that makes me happiest in all the world.

Having returned to Mallaig, we just managed to catch the calmac sailing to Skye.  Here’s our little adventurercar on board.

We skipped across Sleat and off over the bridge.

It may seem a long way round to sail to Skye, drive through it, then off again over the bridge, but it was much quicker than driving up over the mainland.

On arrival at Applecross we set up camp and made a spot of lunch using the local hot smoked salmon.

Yes, it was pretty amazing.

We then headed straight for the Potting Shed in the Walled Garden for carrot and walnut cake and a glass of wine.  The garden was looking beautiful, even in the light of the slightly greyed skies.

 

The last time we were here was in March when everything was suffering after the harsh winter.  It’s hard to believe the garden could have recovered, so it was nice to see how lush and colourful it was.  It looked like a scene from a fairytale.

 

Highland photo journal, part 3- Knoydart

So, Knoydart….

Being a regular visitor to Applecross, I thought I understood ‘remoteness’.  I didn’t.  Not until visiting Knoydart did I really appreciate how far removed from the outside world you could get.  There are two ways of getting here.  Walk, a journey that takes several painful hours across 17 miles of mountain, or sail.  We caught the 2.15 sailing of Bruce’s boat from Mallaig.  We were blessed with a relatively calm sea for the journey.

On arrival we took a stroll round the bay and found this…

 

After the rain…comes more food

Summer is late this year in Scotland.  Very, very late- even by our standards.  After 40 days and 40 nights of rain (I may exaggerate, but it feels like an age), finally the clouds parted and out came the lovely warming, vitamin D enriched sunshine I have been missing these last few weeks.  Aaaah.  This could only mean one thing….

….Bike!

My trusty steed and I did our first cycle in weeks tonight and it was magic.  It felt good to get the wind through my hair, a face full of midges and muddy from head to toe.  

 

exciting possibilities…by boat and by bike

Today, I am pretty excited.  Plans for our next adventure are coming together and, I think, they are rather special.

We will be covering Arisaig, Knoydart, Sleat and Trotternish on Skye and, of course, Applecross.  Arisaig, Skye and Applecross will be repeat visits.  I know what awaits me there and I can’t wait to get back.

Given the remoteness of most areas this involves some careful travel and accommodation planning.  Passenger boats, car ferries, bikes and kayaks will all be making a contribution to our journeys up and around Scotland’s west coast.  I think it sounds amazing!  I can’t wait to get paddling again, it’s been too long…

However, I am actually starting to see the appeal of canoeing instead of kayaking- It’s a bit more flake advert and a bit less Bear Gryls.

I am particularly looking forward to experiencing Knoydart, totally inaccessible by road and can only be reach by rather lengthy hike through mountains.  Alternatively, and this is our preferred route, by boat from Mallaig.

As well as seeing these stunning places, I am excited as this trip will give me the opportunity to eat at some fabulous food establishments.

1. I can’t wait to try the Knoydart prawns!  I here they are a major contender to the infamous Applecross bay prawn I am so partial to.

2. The possibility of eating at The Three Chimneys.  I’ve done this once before and it was outrageously good.  I would love to repeat it and hopefully we can get a table- better book now- it can take 2-3 months for a reservation!

3. Jann’s cake shop in Dunvegan, Skye. You have not had a muffin until you have had one of Jann’s muffins, topped with home made chocolates!

4. The possibility of eating at Kinloch Lodge, Claire McDonald’s restaurant.  Another michelin star restaurant on Skye (in addition to The Three Chimneys).

5. Prawns at the Applecross Inn! -an oldie but a goodie.

6. Dinner at the Potting Shed in the Applecross Walled Garden.  It’s been too long!

7. Dinner at the Shieldaig Coastal Kitchen again, hopefully outside on the roof terrace.

8. Cooking big pots of squat lobster on the camping stove or steaks on the barbecue and eating them al fresco (the weather will, of course, be amazing and there will be no midges).

With all this eating I have in mind it’s a good thing we plan some serious outdoor activities.  I was unfortunate enough to have my bike stolen from under my bedroom window in the middle of the night just a month or two ago.  The cheeky so and so’s wheeled it right by my front door at 4 in the morning.  What’s worse, is the noise of the wheels squeaking actually woke me up but I couldn’t figure out what it was and didn’t until we found the cut security chain dangling lamely from the drainpipe a few days later.  Luckily it was insured and I now have a shiny new bike which I have been getting some practice on recently.

It’s easy to forget what you have on your doorstep and this is something I have been guilty of lately.  I should really make good use of the cycle network my house sits on and since the weather took a turn for the better I have been doing this when I can.

Until I journey off next, I have a feeling I am going to be getting quite familiar with the cycle network and I am looking forward to it.  Since I must be burning off at least ten thousand calories an hour I already feel justified in the extra food intake of late.  I do need my fuel after all!  Speaking of which, the picture of Jann’s cake has put me in the mood…I’m off for a rummage in the fridge.